Learn to draft

Drafting Basics 1 - Online Course

Drafting a Flat Collar (Or how to add a flat collar to the Versatile Blouse Pattern)

In my last post, I showed how you might modify the Versatile Blouse pattern by reshaping the neckline, or adding a collar and/or sleeves.

Other than the Band Collar that I showed previously, the next easiest collar to draft is the Flat Collar, sometimes called a Peter Pan Collar. This type of collar lies flat against the shoulder line and the centre back; there is no rise at the back of the neck like on a regular shirt collar. 

Flat Collar Back

Shirt Collar Back

The flat collar itself is also highly versatile in that you can cut it into nearly any shape.

This tutorial uses the Versatile Blouse pattern as a base but it can be applied to any other blouse pattern with a flat neckline. Some other modifications or adaptations may be necessary but the basic steps should remain the same.

How to draft a Flat Collar:

1. Place the FRONT blouse pattern on a piece of drafting paper or standard A3-size paper is more than adequate). 

2. Trace around the neckline, shoulder and centre front (CF) of your blouse pattern.



3. On the tracing, remove the seam allowance(SA) at the shoulder. If there is SA on the CF, remove it as well.


 4. Take the BACK blouse pattern. Fold down the SA on the shoulder.


5. Align the shoulder of the BACK pattern to the shoulder of the FRONT tracing. 

6. Trace around the back neckline and centre back (CB).




7. If there is SA on the CB, remove it on the tracing.



8. Take note of the width of the original SA on the neckline. For eg. ¼”. You will retain this SA that is already on the tracing.



9. Mark the desired width of the collar on the CF and CB. For eg. 2” 

10. Mark the desired width of the collar at the shoulder. For eg. 1½



11. Mark your desired collar spread. That is, mark how wide apart you’d like the tips of each half of the collar to be from each other. For eg. 2” total spread => 1” each side.

12. Do the same for the back of the collar.



13. Next, draw a smooth curve to connect all the marked points.




14. Add your desired SA to the curve. Eg. ¼


15. If you prefer a rounded tip, then just draw that in.




Your flat collar draft is done. You will need to cut out 4 pieces (2 symmetrical pairs) to complete making the collar. You might need an additional 2 pieces of interfacing.

Try out different flat collar designs, and in contrasting fabric as well. Lengthening the shoulder line to accommodate broader collar widths is another option. As I've said before, the choice is nearly endless!

Get your Versatile Blouse Pattern here.


  1. fashion is all about vibes that you create

  2. Our classic collar stays you will be looking crisp all day. If you want the best handmade collar stays.

  3. Very informative post, I have read your all Blogs.

  4. The article is engaging and provides a comprehensive understanding of the topic. Well done
    Access the administration panel of your Wavlink device through

  5. costumes play an important role in storytelling, reflecting characters' development and the show's aesthetic. Star Trek Picard Season 3 Leather Jacket

  6. Mastering the art of drafting a flat collar adds a touch of sophistication to the versatile blouse pattern. This step-by-step guide unveils the secrets to seamlessly integrate a flat collar, elevating your garment's style. Whether you're a seasoned seamstress or a beginner, this tutorial ensures a polished finish, turning your blouse into a timeless wardrobe staple.

  7. Adding a flat collar to the Versatile Blouse Pattern sounds like a wonderful idea! Your tutorial on drafting this collar is incredibly helpful and timely. Collars can instantly elevate a blouse, adding a touch of sophistication and style. I appreciate how you've broken down the process step-by-step, making it accessible even for those new to sewing. red leather jacket emma swan Your attention to detail, from measuring and drafting to attaching the collar seamlessly, ensures a professional finish. I can't wait to try this technique and see how it transforms my blouse into a chic and versatile wardrobe staple. Thank you for sharing your expertise—I'm looking forward to more sewing tips from you!


Post a Comment

It is always a treat to get a comment! Thanks for yours :)